Mold guide
Musty Smell but No Visible Mold, Where to Look
A musty smell almost always means something is staying damp where you cannot see it, so follow the moisture with your nose, a flashlight and a cheap moisture meter before you pay anyone to test the air.
Why You Can Smell It but Not See It
The musty smell comes from gases that mold and bacteria give off as they grow. Your nose can pick up these gases at very low levels, long before growth is big enough to see or in places you cannot see at all.
A musty smell usually means one of three things.
- Hidden growth behind a wall, under flooring, inside a cabinet, in the HVAC system or in a crawlspace.
- A damp material that has not grown visible mold yet, like a slowly wet carpet pad or a sweating cold water pipe.
- Air from a damp space, such as a basement or crawlspace, being pulled into the living area.
Smell is a clue about where, not how much. A strong smell can come from a small spot in a closed space. A faint smell can come from a large area behind drywall.
Treat a lasting musty smell as a moisture problem to find, not an odor to cover. Air fresheners, candles and odor sprays hide the warning while the damage continues. Once you find the wet spot and fix it, the smell usually fades within days to weeks after cleanup.
Use Your Nose Like a Tool
Your nose gets used to a smell within minutes. That is why the smell hits you when you come home and fades after you have been inside a while.
Use that to your advantage.
- Go outside for 5 minutes to reset your nose, then walk back in slowly.
- Stop in each room and note where the smell is strongest. Write it down.
- Close the doors and turn off the heat or air conditioning for a few hours, then check again. Smell that builds up in one closed room points to that room.
- Get down low. Many sources are at floor level or inside base cabinets. Sniff at the toe kick under cabinets and along baseboards.
- Open closets, cabinets and vanity doors one at a time. A burst of smell when a door opens is a strong clue.
- Notice timing. A smell that gets worse when the air conditioning starts points to the HVAC system. One that is worse after rain points to a roof, window or foundation leak. One that is worse in summer humidity points to a basement or crawlspace.
Ask someone who does not live in the home to walk through with you. A fresh nose often finds the source faster.
The Usual Hiding Places
These spots cause most musty smells with no visible mold. Check them in this order.
- Under sinks. Look at the cabinet floor for swelling, stains or soft spots. Run the water and feel the drain and supply fittings. Check the dishwasher supply line too.
- Behind and under the fridge. Many fridges have a drip pan under the front grille that collects defrost water. A dirty pan can smell bad. Ice maker lines also leak slowly.
- The washing machine. Front-loading washers often grow mold in the rubber door gasket and dispenser drawer. Pull back the gasket and look.
- The HVAC system. A wet drain pan or dirty coil smells musty when the system starts. Check the filter and condensate drain.
- Around toilets. A failing wax seal leaks under the floor. Look for a soft floor or stains around the base.
- Closets on outside walls. Cold walls behind stored clothes and boxes collect condensation with no airflow.
- Behind furniture against outside walls, especially beds and dressers in cool bedrooms.
- Windows. Condensation runs down the glass into the sill and the wall below.
- Carpet over concrete in basements or on ground floors, where moisture from the slab soaks the pad.
- The basement or crawlspace. Air from these spaces rises into the home.
Measure Moisture to Find the Source
A moisture meter costs about $25 to $40 and is the single most useful tool for this search. It tells you when a wall, floor or cabinet is wet even when it looks and feels dry.
How to use it. Take a reading in a known dry spot of the same material, like a wall in the middle of the house. Then take readings in the suspect area every foot or so. A reading clearly higher than your dry baseline means water is present. Follow the higher readings until they peak. That is usually close to the source.
Focus on these spots.
- The bottom 12 inches of walls behind toilets, tubs, showers, sinks and appliances.
- Walls and ceilings below bathrooms and laundry rooms.
- Walls under windows.
- Cabinet floors and the subfloor near the fridge and dishwasher.
Use a hygrometer to check humidity in each room. The EPA recommends keeping indoor humidity below 60 percent, ideally between 30 and 50 percent. A basement at 70 percent will smell musty even if nothing is leaking.
An infrared thermometer can help too. Damp areas are often a few degrees cooler than the surrounding wall because water evaporating cools the surface. It is a clue to check with the moisture meter, not proof by itself.
You can also check for a hidden supply leak. Turn off every faucet and water-using appliance, then watch your water meter for 1 to 2 hours. If it moves, water is leaking somewhere.
Smells That Are Not Mold
Not every bad smell is mold. Knowing the difference saves time and points you to the right fix.
| Smell | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Musty, earthy, damp basement | Mold or bacteria on damp materials | Follow this guide |
| Rotten eggs or sulfur | Possible natural gas leak | Leave now, call the gas utility from outside |
| Sewer smell near a drain | Dry drain trap or a failed vent or seal | Run water in unused drains, check the toilet seal |
| Sweet, sickly or rotting smell in one area | A dead animal in a wall or attic | Find it or wait it out, and seal entry points |
| Sour smell from a sink | Bacteria in the drain or disposal | Clean the drain and disposal |
| Burning or fishy smell near outlets | Overheating electrical parts | Turn off the breaker and call an electrician |
| Urine or ammonia | Pets or rodents | Find the source and clean with an enzyme cleaner |
A dry drain trap is a very common false alarm. Floor drains, guest bathroom tubs and basement sinks that are rarely used can dry out and let sewer gas in. Pour a quart of water in each one and see if the smell fades within a day.
When to Bring in a Professional
If you have searched carefully and still cannot find the source, a professional inspection is worth the money. Look for an inspector who uses moisture meters and a thermal camera, not just air samples. Moisture mapping finds hidden water that air tests only hint at.
A good inspection covers the whole home, including the attic, crawlspace, HVAC system and the areas around plumbing. Expect a written report with photos, moisture readings and specific recommendations.
Air testing can help with a hidden problem. It compares indoor and outdoor spore counts and types to see whether there is an indoor source. It does not tell you where the source is. Always make sure an outdoor control sample is taken.
Hire an assessor who does not also do mold removal. That removes the incentive to find a problem.
You should call sooner, not later, if any of these apply.
- A moisture meter shows a wet wall or ceiling and you cannot find the leak.
- The smell is strongest near a shared wall or ceiling in a condo or apartment.
- Someone in the home has asthma, allergies or a weak immune system and symptoms are worse at home.
- There was a past flood, sewage backup or long leak in the home.
Step by Step
Reset Your Nose
Step outside for 5 minutes, then walk back in slowly. Note which rooms smell strongest and write them down.
Close Off and Recheck
Close room doors and turn off the HVAC for a few hours. Check again to see which room the smell builds up in.
Check the Top Hiding Places
Look under every sink, behind the fridge and its drip pan, in the washer gasket, around toilets and in closets on outside walls.
Take Moisture Readings
Get a baseline reading on dry drywall, then check the bottom 12 inches of walls near plumbing and under windows. Follow higher readings to their peak.
Check Humidity Room by Room
Leave a hygrometer in each suspect room for 20 minutes. Anything above 60 percent needs a dehumidifier or better ventilation.
Test for a Hidden Supply Leak
Turn off all faucets and appliances and watch the water meter for 1 to 2 hours. Movement means a leak somewhere in the supply lines.
Rule Out Other Smells
Refill unused drain traps with water, check the toilet seal and consider a dead animal if the smell is sweet and in one spot.
Inspect the HVAC and Lower Spaces
Check the air filter and condensate drain, then look in the basement or crawlspace for standing water, damp insulation or growth.
Fix, Clean and Recheck
Once you find the source, fix the water, clean or remove small growth safely and dry the area. If the smell remains after two weeks, call a professional.
Mistakes That Make It Worse
- Covering the smell with air fresheners, candles or an ozone machine. The damp source keeps growing behind the scent.
- Buying a petri dish test kit. It almost always grows mold and does not tell you where the source is.
- Cutting holes in walls to follow the smell. That spreads spores and, in older homes, can disturb lead or asbestos.
- Ignoring a rotten egg smell as just another odor. That can be a gas leak.
- Forgetting the washer gasket and fridge drip pan, which cause many smells with no visible wall mold.
Where You Live Matters
New York City
In New York City apartments, a musty smell often comes from a neighbor’s leak or the building’s pipes inside a shared wall. Take dated notes and report it to your landlord in writing, since Local Law 55 of 2018 requires landlords to address mold and the moisture that causes it.
Nevada
In dry Nevada homes a musty smell stands out, and it usually points to a specific water source such as a slab leak, a water heater drip, an air conditioner condensate problem or an evaporative cooler. The water meter test is especially useful for finding slab leaks.
When to Call a Pro
- You cannot find the source after checking every hiding place and taking moisture readings
- A wall, ceiling or floor reads wet and you cannot find the leak
- The smell seems to come from inside a wall, under the floor or from the HVAC system
- The smell started after a flood, sewage backup or long leak
- Someone in the home has asthma, allergies or a weak immune system. Use the directory to find a specialist near you
Find mold remediation companies in Los Angeles County, Miami and Fort Lauderdale, Dallas and Fort Worth, Houston, New York City and 40 more metro areas.
Questions People Ask
Why does my house smell musty but I can’t find mold?
Can a musty smell be something other than mold?
Is a musty smell harmful?
Should I get a mold test for a musty smell?
How do I get rid of a musty smell in my closet?
Why does my house smell musty when the AC turns on?
- Time
- 1 to 3 hours for a full search
- DIY cost
- $25 to $60 for a moisture meter and hygrometer
- Pro cost
- $300 to $700 for a mold inspection with moisture mapping
What You Need
- Bright flashlight and a small inspection mirror
- Pin or pinless moisture meter
- Digital hygrometer, ideally two or three
- Screwdriver for removing vent covers and toe kicks
- Notebook to record readings by room
- N95 respirator and gloves for when you find something
- Infrared thermometer, optional, to spot cold, damp areas
Safety First
- If the smell is rotten eggs or sulfur, leave and call your gas utility from outside, since that can be a gas leak
- Do not cut into walls or ceilings to follow a smell, especially in homes built before 1980 where lead paint or asbestos is possible
- Turn off power before removing electrical cover plates or appliance panels
- Wear an N95 and gloves once you find growth
Keep Reading
- DIY with careHow to Find a Hidden Leak in Walls, Ceilings and SlabsHow to track down a hidden leak in walls, ceilings or under a slab using your water meter, a dye test, a moisture meter and simple isolation tests.
- DIY with careMold in HVAC Systems, Ducts and Window AC UnitsWhere mold grows in air conditioners, furnaces and ducts, what you can clean yourself, what needs a pro, and why foggers and bleach in ducts are a bad idea.
- Call a proMold Testing, When It Is Worth It and How to Read a Lab ReportWhen a mold test is worth paying for, which kind to ask for, why store kits mislead, and how to read spore counts, outdoor controls and a lab report yourself.
- DIY with careCrawlspace and Basement Moisture, Finding the Source and Drying It OutWhy crawlspaces and basements get damp, a simple test to tell seepage from condensation, and which fixes work, from gutters to vapor barriers to drain tile.
- DIY friendlyIndoor Humidity, the Right Level and How to Hold ItThe right indoor humidity is about 30 to 50 percent. Learn how to measure it, when a dehumidifier helps, and how to stop condensation and mold for good.
- DIY friendlyIs It Mold, Mildew, Dirt or Efflorescence? How to Tell in 10 MinutesHow to tell mold from mildew, dirt, soot ghosting and efflorescence at home with a few simple tests, and what each one means for your next step.
General information for homeowners and renters, not professional, legal or medical advice. When a job involves electricity, gas, structural damage or hazardous materials, stop and call a qualified professional.